Despite reservation and flashbacks to the cold nights we spent last time in Morocco we both slept well and warm. The cosy bed was just what we were after - and we definitely felt like we were now on holiday. Breakfast was plentiful - the delicious flat bread I so liked from last time - and a polenta type bread which was also fantastic. Neil was happy with a flask of very strong black murky coffee - but I opted for traditional mint tea. We settled the bill - 60CHF for half-board.

We wanted to drive to Rabat today via Moulay Bousselham - but first we had a couple of errands to perform in Larache. We bought a Moroccan sim-card so that we had a local phone with us, Neil then wanted to get the very dusty car washed - we had walked past a place the previous evening. The washer initially said 1 hour - but I got them down to 30 minutes. Just enough time for Neil to get his hair cut!!

We want to avoid motorways and main roads wherever possible - so the idea was to cut in land and then take a "yellow" road down the coast. We missed the turning and ended 30km inland. I located an alternative - and Neil found the junction.

The road seemed OK to start with - narrow but tarmaced - as it wound it's way into the low hills. But good turned to bad which turned to ugly!! Neil first weaved the car through all the potholes, then moved onto driving more quickly over the small ones.

But potholes turned into craters into a mudtrack. The car laughed off the terrain and just pushed it's way through - it was all rather impressive. The road began to improve - and I proved again that I was more than just a capable navigator. Just as I was starting to feel a little hungry we rolled down the hill into the small town of Moullay Bousellham.

We ate another selection of fried fish on a first floor terrace overlooking the sea. Although I suspect Neil was more interested in trading the car in for something for appropriate for todays roads. We wondered down to the beach after lunch and then through the small local market.

After the slow morning progress I directed Neil onto the peage motorway - for the drive south to Rabat. The Moroccan police were out in force - and I lost count of the number of speed traps along the way. However, the road was fairly quiet and Neil kept the speeds legal - for a change.

I had a picked a nice hotel near the centre of Rabat - which had the most important facility - WIFI. There was a small problem - it was full!!! Onto choice number 2 - only available for 1 night. Onto the Hotel Splendide - the cold place we stayed last time - FULL!! Oh no. We then checked out the place next door - and promptly walked on. Our next hope was the Hotel Royal - they had a room. Not only that - it was large, with a great view across the square AND WIFI!!!!

Neil barged his way across town - and we deposited ourselves in the room for a quick drink - and to work out where to go for dinner. We decided on a place - and relaxed we wandered off into the Medina. Unlike Fes or Marrakech, the Medina in Rabat is just rammed full of locals - and walking even a short distance can take a lot longer than expected.

Finding the restaurant was a lot more challenging. It wasn't where it should have been on the map - after walking the same street twice - I sent us down a small street. No luck. Neil decided to ask a furniture maker if he knew. He didn't. Nor did his colleague, nor his neighbour. But one of them pulled out his phone, called the Restaurant - and got directions. He wouldn't take anything for the cost of the call.

The restaurant wasn't quite as expected - but the food and atmosphere was superb. There was more food than even Neil could manage!!! The bill was just over the cash we had - so it was time to use the credit card - although less than 90CHF for a 3 course meal including drinks and service isn't expensive anywhere else!